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Can you guess what it is yet ? :)
- Thread starter mrsparky
- Start date
Are these tapered enough ?
Some background here..
Sorry there was no update last night, a little darling threw a paddy and vandalised one of our playgroup tables.
While he was sent home without any tea, we couldn't get the graffiti off our logo.
We did try some alternate stickers, but our stock was limited because another big toddler was naughty and closed all the cool shops.
So if anyone wants a free table, just leave a message here...
Some background here..
Sorry there was no update last night, a little darling threw a paddy and vandalised one of our playgroup tables.
While he was sent home without any tea, we couldn't get the graffiti off our logo.
We did try some alternate stickers, but our stock was limited because another big toddler was naughty and closed all the cool shops.
So if anyone wants a free table, just leave a message here...
...and tonight's slightly less silly WIP... the powerlines..and yep I know it's not accurate.
Instead it's a hybrid based on various images of transformers, poles, wires etc, to give the flavour.
It's also the largest in terms of mesh/file size - around 2mb - which I think isn't bad given the detail level.
Instead it's a hybrid based on various images of transformers, poles, wires etc, to give the flavour.
It's also the largest in terms of mesh/file size - around 2mb - which I think isn't bad given the detail level.
McGyver
Energetic
That sucks... I used to have a huge outdoor set in G Scale/ 1/24th scale... it was eventually crushed (twice) by trees... the first time I repaired most of the damage, but it was never the same... it was built like actually movie sets with the intention of being able to be moved if need be, the sections attached to each other and the seams were hidden... but the first tree cause structural damage to most of the sections which eventually damaged the electrical system, the irrigation (it had a live forest of miniature trees and groundcovers) and drainage began to leak and that weakened the whole thing so years later when the second tree fell, most of it was obliterated.
Seeing your work get trashed is really disappointing and disheartening... I’m sorry to hear you experienced that.
Seeing your work get trashed is really disappointing and disheartening... I’m sorry to hear you experienced that.
Thanks that's appreciated.
What happened is our brilliant neighbourhood got new people during lockdown, and with everyone stuck indoors, the level of weed consumption has shot through the roof. Don't get me wrong, unlike Bill I've inhaled before and usually don't have any issues with that.
Problem is the new strains stink so much, so much even the dog keels over when he goes out for a walk, and there's nothing worse than a stoned Chihuahua. Not saying the breed is biologically grumpy, but he bought himself a Harley, mirrorshades and a chainsaw as an early xmas gift.
So initially we did consider letting him maul the little darlings.
But he's fat enough from lockdown treats and likes to bury his eaten food. Plus it's tricky enough to avoid fines for breaching covid regs. So having to explain away a 1/2 eaten drug dealer has a high potential for some serious social embarrassment, oh and a long holiday courtesy of her Majesty.
Actually being serious now, drug dealing has become a real PITA around here. In particular when they sell the stuff outside my kitchen window and by our garage/workshops. In particular for one of the people I look after. They have a lung condition, so sometimes I've had to use an industrial fan, just so they can catch their breath.
At first the PTB's cracked down hard with patrols 2-3 times a day, but when those stopped the problem soon came back. Residents where also told to stop challenging the little sh*ts. So we've been dealing with the issue by being infuriatingly nice and friendly. Usually at the volume level of (the amazing) Sir Brian Blessed. Sometimes even offering them cups of tea.
Trouble is that draws attention to their nefariousness activity's and they don't like that kinda free advertising. So, when I stupidly left my workshop door wide open, one of them saw that as an opportunity to send a little warning shot to try and make the residents back off.
Fair play to a incredibly mortified parent, compensation was instantly offered. But as I build from scrap materials it was hard to price, so I settled on a new baseboard and plan to restart.
BTW - your train set sounded amazing!
Thanks that's appreciated.
What happened is our brilliant neighbourhood got new people during lockdown, and with everyone stuck indoors, the level of weed consumption has shot through the roof. Don't get me wrong, unlike Bill I've inhaled before and usually don't have any issues with that.
Problem is the new strains stink so much, so much even the dog keels over when he goes out for a walk, and there's nothing worse than a stoned Chihuahua. Not saying the breed is biologically grumpy, but he bought himself a Harley, mirrorshades and a chainsaw as an early xmas gift.
So initially we did consider letting him maul the little darlings.
But he's fat enough from lockdown treats and likes to bury his eaten food. Plus it's tricky enough to avoid fines for breaching covid regs. So having to explain away a 1/2 eaten drug dealer has a high potential for some serious social embarrassment, oh and a long holiday courtesy of her Majesty.
Actually being serious now, drug dealing has become a real PITA around here. In particular when they sell the stuff outside my kitchen window and by our garage/workshops. In particular for one of the people I look after. They have a lung condition, so sometimes I've had to use an industrial fan, just so they can catch their breath.
At first the PTB's cracked down hard with patrols 2-3 times a day, but when those stopped the problem soon came back. Residents where also told to stop challenging the little sh*ts. So we've been dealing with the issue by being infuriatingly nice and friendly. Usually at the volume level of (the amazing) Sir Brian Blessed. Sometimes even offering them cups of tea.
Trouble is that draws attention to their nefariousness activity's and they don't like that kinda free advertising. So, when I stupidly left my workshop door wide open, one of them saw that as an opportunity to send a little warning shot to try and make the residents back off.
Fair play to a incredibly mortified parent, compensation was instantly offered. But as I build from scrap materials it was hard to price, so I settled on a new baseboard and plan to restart.
BTW - your train set sounded amazing!
...and tonights update...
Which if you know about modelling, mapping etc is ..well.. a tad boring. If you don't, you might find it interesting to know.
Both the models above use box mapping. It's the most basic form of mapping and generally good for buildings because they are square(ish).
But if you have an inset on your model, it has an annoying habit. As you can see once you apply a texture, anything on the outside will be the same on the inside of the inset.
So what you need to do is create a separate "material zone" for the inset. Which can be done in most modelling/mapping software, but not all. Plus it can be fiddly to do. Hence I define these separate zones in the modelling software. Then play and tweak these zones in the mapping software.
Upside is it makes the models look so much better. Downside is it's time consuming to do. Which, as you can see from the (very rough) second picture, is the stage I'm at now with building #3. But that's now finished for that model, so now I can texture it.
You'll also notice from the 2nd image the walls are separate zones. This is done that way because, as mentioned earlier, it allows for better quality images to be
used as textures. Which in turn makes for better renders.
Which if you know about modelling, mapping etc is ..well.. a tad boring. If you don't, you might find it interesting to know.
Both the models above use box mapping. It's the most basic form of mapping and generally good for buildings because they are square(ish).
But if you have an inset on your model, it has an annoying habit. As you can see once you apply a texture, anything on the outside will be the same on the inside of the inset.
So what you need to do is create a separate "material zone" for the inset. Which can be done in most modelling/mapping software, but not all. Plus it can be fiddly to do. Hence I define these separate zones in the modelling software. Then play and tweak these zones in the mapping software.
Upside is it makes the models look so much better. Downside is it's time consuming to do. Which, as you can see from the (very rough) second picture, is the stage I'm at now with building #3. But that's now finished for that model, so now I can texture it.
You'll also notice from the 2nd image the walls are separate zones. This is done that way because, as mentioned earlier, it allows for better quality images to be
used as textures. Which in turn makes for better renders.
McGyver
Energetic
Mrsparky, I think we are kindred souls... I too build stuff out of reclaimed materials.
It has its origins in necessity... (my childhood is “complicated“, but...) as a kid I grew up in an industrial neighborhood in NYC... we didn’t have lots of money, and there were many industries that threw away perfectly good raw materials as well as some partially complete but defective goods... you name it, I could find scrap of it... metals, marble, plastics (lots of those), electronics, wood (from movie sets)... not to mention there were loads of abandoned lots where people dumped stuff, so the pickings were pretty good.
It was mad science at its finest.
As I grew older and had my own income it was easier to buy supplies than to scout out a haul... but I never gave that up entirely... I still can’t look at a perfectly good vacuum or BBQ grill on the curb and not think... Killer Robot Parts!
A while back I was making miniature (if 1,000 kg is miniature) landscaped water features (waterfall/fountain) where the substructure was made almost entirely out of reclaimed shipping palates... which can be a great source of very durable wood.
I stopped doing that, but much to my wife’s chagrin I still drag things home to disassemble for parts and materials.
BTW... if the little narrow gauge engine (a Shay?) used in the texture map is your work, thats pretty cool... granted it’s hard to see exact detail, but it still looks good.
It has its origins in necessity... (my childhood is “complicated“, but...) as a kid I grew up in an industrial neighborhood in NYC... we didn’t have lots of money, and there were many industries that threw away perfectly good raw materials as well as some partially complete but defective goods... you name it, I could find scrap of it... metals, marble, plastics (lots of those), electronics, wood (from movie sets)... not to mention there were loads of abandoned lots where people dumped stuff, so the pickings were pretty good.
It was mad science at its finest.
As I grew older and had my own income it was easier to buy supplies than to scout out a haul... but I never gave that up entirely... I still can’t look at a perfectly good vacuum or BBQ grill on the curb and not think... Killer Robot Parts!
A while back I was making miniature (if 1,000 kg is miniature) landscaped water features (waterfall/fountain) where the substructure was made almost entirely out of reclaimed shipping palates... which can be a great source of very durable wood.
I stopped doing that, but much to my wife’s chagrin I still drag things home to disassemble for parts and materials.
BTW... if the little narrow gauge engine (a Shay?) used in the texture map is your work, thats pretty cool... granted it’s hard to see exact detail, but it still looks good.
Yea I get the necessity and complicated childhood stuff. Especially when golden time was spent with the grandparents.
As the map shows, they literally lived in a cottage in the woods. At the time the village only had 2 shops, just 1 today.
So if you wanted a garage for your Matchbox cars, it was hope a cereal box (which of course had toys!) was empty
Even later, when going to a totally urban and back to a slightly less rural environments, like yourself that habit never stopped. Indeed when I was lucky enough to get something ultra-cool like a Millennium Falcon, I still made spaceships and buildings for action figures from A2 sheets of artboard.
2020 is no different, My better 1/2 has just accepted the kitchen is just another depository for collected junk.
Such as loads of amazon brown paper as it makes for perfect PVA machie.
Just right for making human sized orc armour. Intended for a friends (constantly postponed) fantasy themed wedding and a dog show.
Though I still sense the anger when someone reminds her the new cooker has streaks of industrial casting resin on it
And yes pallets as well, this year using some to make a planter box for some nurses who worked on the Covid wards. They came from overseas to work, and risked dying, here. Yet our country sh*t all over them, so that was the least we could do. Later made some other bits for other medics.
As for the Shay, sadly not mine. The photo was taken at the Midhurst Model show. A show that's been running for 37 years, due again next Feb.
Went to the 1st one, and lost count how many since, so fingers X'd it'll be back in 2021.
As the map shows, they literally lived in a cottage in the woods. At the time the village only had 2 shops, just 1 today.
So if you wanted a garage for your Matchbox cars, it was hope a cereal box (which of course had toys!) was empty
Even later, when going to a totally urban and back to a slightly less rural environments, like yourself that habit never stopped. Indeed when I was lucky enough to get something ultra-cool like a Millennium Falcon, I still made spaceships and buildings for action figures from A2 sheets of artboard.
2020 is no different, My better 1/2 has just accepted the kitchen is just another depository for collected junk.
Such as loads of amazon brown paper as it makes for perfect PVA machie.
Just right for making human sized orc armour. Intended for a friends (constantly postponed) fantasy themed wedding and a dog show.
Though I still sense the anger when someone reminds her the new cooker has streaks of industrial casting resin on it
And yes pallets as well, this year using some to make a planter box for some nurses who worked on the Covid wards. They came from overseas to work, and risked dying, here. Yet our country sh*t all over them, so that was the least we could do. Later made some other bits for other medics.
As for the Shay, sadly not mine. The photo was taken at the Midhurst Model show. A show that's been running for 37 years, due again next Feb.
Went to the 1st one, and lost count how many since, so fingers X'd it'll be back in 2021.
DanaTA
Distinguished
Be careful of pallet wood. You don't know what they went through. I recently saw a video by a woodworking guy on YouTube who talked about why he doesn't use it anymore. It seems that chemicals may have been on the pallet, a spill or such, and the chemicals might be toxic. He was told by a health organization not to suggest that, they had cases of people getting very sick and even a few deaths from off-fumes of chemicals that had leached into the wood. I suppose it's OK to use it if you know its history and know that nothing of the sort was used on the pallet. Sometimes, though, pallets are recycled into new pallets, with maybe just a little cleaning up.
Dana
Dana
McGyver
Energetic
Yup, I’m aware of that... I‘ve been warning folks about burning pallets too... as well as discarded fencing... pressure treated wood can have very nasty chemicals in it.
The pallets I used to use were from a company that was nearby that used to discard new ones... they had a bin outside they would stack them in for people to take... even then, I still treated them like they had radioactive Ebola on them.
They moved a while ago so that went away... Occasionally I’ll pick clean ones up from a mini-storage place nearby.
Also pallets from marble or tile places are pretty good because they are generally only used by that vendor and they don’t like reusing them too much.
The pallets I used to use were from a company that was nearby that used to discard new ones... they had a bin outside they would stack them in for people to take... even then, I still treated them like they had radioactive Ebola on them.
They moved a while ago so that went away... Occasionally I’ll pick clean ones up from a mini-storage place nearby.
Also pallets from marble or tile places are pretty good because they are generally only used by that vendor and they don’t like reusing them too much.
You must have read my mind, because the last ones I got came from a tile supplier (Thanks to Jamie & Caleb!)
Even then it's like you say you can't 'trust' pallets, so I only use these for outside stuff.
Same with scaffolding planks, unless brand new, which are rare beasties.
As for MDF and similar composites, yea safety has to be key there.
Especially the former, that's called the new asbestos by some craftspeople.
Even then it's like you say you can't 'trust' pallets, so I only use these for outside stuff.
Same with scaffolding planks, unless brand new, which are rare beasties.
As for MDF and similar composites, yea safety has to be key there.
Especially the former, that's called the new asbestos by some craftspeople.
Talking of materials, something really different..using wall insulation to make 3d mud for models. Well I did say different
Backstory here was I started making a 'response' piece for a contest. In posh artworld speak that means one artist is asked/allowed to make an artwork in "response" to another artists work. My idea was to have a tank blasting through a wall at speed spraying up mud. With an easel flying through the air and an artist leaping out the way. All frozen in time at the moment of impact.
Some stuff was easy enough, old 1970's Airfix multipose figures. Wall from fishtank gravel. 50p easel from an art shop and the tank was a cheap kids toy. But some stuff wasn't so simple. Lots of modellers use washes/pigments from the likes of Games Workshop and MIG. Stuff that costs a small fortune, so I made my own using ideas from Luke's APS on youtube. No airbrush either, so to spray mud on the tank involved a £1 can of compressed air, a drinking straw and 3 days of cleaning the kitchen.
Though by far biggest challenge was how to make the mud spraying up. Simple solution was 3d printing and a coating of homemade mud.
Which is great if you have a 3d printer and models of water splashes.
Not so great when you have no cash for filament and learning real flow makes your brain hurt. Same time our housing assoc decided to insulate the walls and they used special polystyrene beads. Which went everywhere, especially when they accidentally drilled through the walls.
Stuff that I noticed flowed like water
So...cheap superglue (with a kicker) and florists wire. Slap on a coat of homemade mud, with a dash of satin varnish because gloss is too shiny.
And you have exploding shells, mud flying from car tires etc.
Backstory here was I started making a 'response' piece for a contest. In posh artworld speak that means one artist is asked/allowed to make an artwork in "response" to another artists work. My idea was to have a tank blasting through a wall at speed spraying up mud. With an easel flying through the air and an artist leaping out the way. All frozen in time at the moment of impact.
Some stuff was easy enough, old 1970's Airfix multipose figures. Wall from fishtank gravel. 50p easel from an art shop and the tank was a cheap kids toy. But some stuff wasn't so simple. Lots of modellers use washes/pigments from the likes of Games Workshop and MIG. Stuff that costs a small fortune, so I made my own using ideas from Luke's APS on youtube. No airbrush either, so to spray mud on the tank involved a £1 can of compressed air, a drinking straw and 3 days of cleaning the kitchen.
Though by far biggest challenge was how to make the mud spraying up. Simple solution was 3d printing and a coating of homemade mud.
Which is great if you have a 3d printer and models of water splashes.
Not so great when you have no cash for filament and learning real flow makes your brain hurt. Same time our housing assoc decided to insulate the walls and they used special polystyrene beads. Which went everywhere, especially when they accidentally drilled through the walls.
Stuff that I noticed flowed like water
So...cheap superglue (with a kicker) and florists wire. Slap on a coat of homemade mud, with a dash of satin varnish because gloss is too shiny.
And you have exploding shells, mud flying from car tires etc.
Equally different...3d monsters for use in Poser/Studio and also making wood/cardboard versions.
Grab a copy of the game Spore, it's dirt cheap from 2nd hand games shop.
Then get the last patch, this has a cheat mode which allows OBJ export.
For use in Poser etc, leave the textures in the same folder as the exported .OBJ and just import the model in.
Because the export creates an .MTL (it's like a "texture" file for OBJ's) the model will load with textures applied.
Obviously it's not rigged, plus you might need to tidy up the textures in your paint software.
But it's a fun way of getting something different for your renders.
For making these real world, just import the model into Slicer 360 for Fusion (it's free).
Print the templates and glue onto card/wood etc. Then, depending on material, use PVA machie, woodglue/sawdust mix or wall filler to smooth out.
Grab a copy of the game Spore, it's dirt cheap from 2nd hand games shop.
Then get the last patch, this has a cheat mode which allows OBJ export.
For use in Poser etc, leave the textures in the same folder as the exported .OBJ and just import the model in.
Because the export creates an .MTL (it's like a "texture" file for OBJ's) the model will load with textures applied.
Obviously it's not rigged, plus you might need to tidy up the textures in your paint software.
But it's a fun way of getting something different for your renders.
For making these real world, just import the model into Slicer 360 for Fusion (it's free).
Print the templates and glue onto card/wood etc. Then, depending on material, use PVA machie, woodglue/sawdust mix or wall filler to smooth out.
McGyver
Energetic
That’s looking really good!
You mentioned using CA glue to build up material to represent mud... and that reminded me of a trick you probably know, but if you don’t it might be worth mentioning... Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) makes an excellent filler material for CA glue... a common use is to fill gaps or imperfections in wood (for the impatient who don’t want to use epoxy fillers)... it’s also good for use in modeling too...
You drop a bit of CA in the gap, force a little baking soda in on top and it will kick over right away, you can then sand it flat... or you can even pack the hole with sodium bicarbonate and flow a drop of CA onto that, depending on the viscosity of the CA... different CAs react at different rates, so some may set up instantly while others may take a few seconds... depending on the CA material you can even build it up and shape it... if you don’t need the filler to be translucent and really hard, Corn Starch can be used with very thin CA... it takes a few seconds longer to kick, but its sandable and more forgiving when filling gaps... but it’s stark white and not as hard.
Around here some of the dollar stores have silicon oven pads (like oven mitts, but it’s just a square of material... they probably are called something else, but I’m sure you get the idea)...
If you can find ones without details on the surface (smooth/glossy) silicon is generally nonstick, so for example if you wanted to make a sheet of water for a fountain you could lay up the material (CA or Epoxy) on the silicon and when it looks right you just peel it off... this is good for simulating splatting water or icicles... 5 min epoxy is great for anything translucent.
Like if you wanted to a have a splatter of water shooting out from a tire going through a puddle, you could mix up the epoxy and using bamboo skewers or shaped popsicle sticks sculpt the epoxy on the silicon mat once it starts to gel up... it takes a little practice, but it looks pretty good... and you can even use a hair dryer to bend the epoxy (simulating the splatter arching) when placing it on the model if the epoxy is not yet completely set.
Sorry for the unsolicited suggestions... and I hope I didn’t distract too much from your thread.
You mentioned using CA glue to build up material to represent mud... and that reminded me of a trick you probably know, but if you don’t it might be worth mentioning... Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) makes an excellent filler material for CA glue... a common use is to fill gaps or imperfections in wood (for the impatient who don’t want to use epoxy fillers)... it’s also good for use in modeling too...
You drop a bit of CA in the gap, force a little baking soda in on top and it will kick over right away, you can then sand it flat... or you can even pack the hole with sodium bicarbonate and flow a drop of CA onto that, depending on the viscosity of the CA... different CAs react at different rates, so some may set up instantly while others may take a few seconds... depending on the CA material you can even build it up and shape it... if you don’t need the filler to be translucent and really hard, Corn Starch can be used with very thin CA... it takes a few seconds longer to kick, but its sandable and more forgiving when filling gaps... but it’s stark white and not as hard.
Around here some of the dollar stores have silicon oven pads (like oven mitts, but it’s just a square of material... they probably are called something else, but I’m sure you get the idea)...
If you can find ones without details on the surface (smooth/glossy) silicon is generally nonstick, so for example if you wanted to make a sheet of water for a fountain you could lay up the material (CA or Epoxy) on the silicon and when it looks right you just peel it off... this is good for simulating splatting water or icicles... 5 min epoxy is great for anything translucent.
Like if you wanted to a have a splatter of water shooting out from a tire going through a puddle, you could mix up the epoxy and using bamboo skewers or shaped popsicle sticks sculpt the epoxy on the silicon mat once it starts to gel up... it takes a little practice, but it looks pretty good... and you can even use a hair dryer to bend the epoxy (simulating the splatter arching) when placing it on the model if the epoxy is not yet completely set.
Sorry for the unsolicited suggestions... and I hope I didn’t distract too much from your thread.