Two possible types of materials:
A. Thick garments. Fully independent sides, independent bump/normal maps and displacement (in Iray). Non-translucent.
 Usable for cloaks, coats and so on. Basically where you need padding, but item was not modeled this way. Possible artifacts on edges if bump/normal not zero here. But you could have red fur-padded mantles for you kings and queens with some effort.
 Usable for cloaks, coats and so on. Basically where you need padding, but item was not modeled this way. Possible artifacts on edges if bump/normal not zero here. But you could have red fur-padded mantles for you kings and queens with some effort.B. Thin cloth. Composite translucency - i.e. mix of colors of print on face side, translucency color and color of flip side. Independent metal/roughness and glossy layer settings for sides. Metallness affects (nullify) transparency. (Metal details or golden embroidery is not translucent, is it?)
No displacement.
Variation with cloth(weave)-specific gloss options and pores in cloth (some synchronization of sides will be used).
(Ceramics not forgotten. But historic correctness takes time, so it's kind of crawl...)
 
				 
 
		 
 
		 
 
		 
 
		