Two possible types of materials:
A. Thick garments. Fully independent sides, independent bump/normal maps and displacement (in Iray). Non-translucent. Usable for cloaks, coats and so on. Basically where you need padding, but item was not modeled this way. Possible artifacts on edges if bump/normal not zero here. But you could have red fur-padded mantles for you kings and queens with some effort.
B. Thin cloth. Composite translucency - i.e. mix of colors of print on face side, translucency color and color of flip side. Independent metal/roughness and glossy layer settings for sides. Metallness affects (nullify) transparency. (Metal details or golden embroidery is not translucent, is it?)
No displacement.
Variation with cloth(weave)-specific gloss options and pores in cloth (some synchronization of sides will be used).
(Ceramics not forgotten. But historic correctness takes time, so it's kind of crawl...)